Passage V

The Artful Stitch of Paj Ntaub

She depicts flowers with layers of petals, intricate spirals and rosettes, teardrops bending within circles, and dizzying mazes of lines—embroidering them in vibrant reds, blues, pinks, yellows, and greens on fabric of delicate silk or cotton. Pang Xiong Sirirathasuk Sikoun is a master of paj ntaub, or “flower cloth” embroidery, the most difficult of the century’s-oldest Hmong needlework arts. Paj ntaub is increasingly made in lighter, softer shades today. (63) She’s been creating stitched textiles since she was a young woman, and lived in northern Laos. For the past several decades, she’s been designing paj ntaub in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, where she also teaches her craft.

Flower cloth (commonly as a shirt, dress, coat, or collar) is made to be worn as clothing and, depending on the amount of needlework on the piece, is designed either for everyday wear or for a special occasion. With pattern names such as “elephant’s foot” and “snail house” and images of animals framed by geometric designs, paj ntaub patterns are versatile. What distinguishes paj ntaub from other Hmong needlework arts is the artist’s use of tiny, tight stitches, and several complex techniques. One technique is reverse appliqué, in which shapes are cut out from, rather than adding on top of, the embroidered fabric. Another is elaborate overstitching: thousands of layered stitches are applied to its surface.

Pang Xiong regrets that most people she knows today wear only regular clothes. When she was growing up in Laos, she explains, she had few items of clothing, but each garment she owned was handcrafted paj ntaub. However, she still wears flower cloth every day and would like to inspire others to do so. Pang Xiong teaches paj ntaub in art museums—including at the Smithsonian Institution, where some of her textiles are on permanent display—and in community settings around Philadelphia. (75) Pang Xiong is showing a new generation the joys of paj ntaub and beautiful handcrafted clothing.