Passage IV

Wild West, White Linens

In the late 1800s, people who traveled west of the Mississippi River by train meant heading into a region still rough around the edges: The terrain was rugged. The weather was harsh. Rigid were the train’s seats. Food was scarce.

Then suddenly one day, “eating houses” appeared anywhere trains took a twenty-minute stop to replenish an engines’ water supply. These eateries were often a little more then ramshackle sheds or hastily erected tents. The use of campfire cooking and a lack of refrigeration meant passengers were likely to be served a concoction of spoiled produce and half-cooked meat impersonating stew.

In 1901, Fred Harvey’s sons took over the company. Out of Harvey’s talent and ambition to grow the Harvey House chain of restaurants. Harvey struck a deal with a major railroad line, the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway. In return for Santa Fe trains delivering fresh produce, meat, and dairy products to his kitchens daily, Harvey promised not to open any restaurants along competitors’ routes. Which resulted in that only the Santa Fe railroad would offer passengers hot, savory meals served in elegant style.

[1] Instead of food-stained planks, Harvey House tables were draped in white linen. [2] Tin plates were replaced by fine china and silverware. [3] A cadre of young women—dubbed “the Harvey Girls” served guests quickly and cordially. [4] Harvey believed the term “waitress” implied servitude not his staff would offer gracious hospitality. [5] And incredible food. [6] Rather than suffering days-old stew, customers at Harvey House were served meals such as meat, vegetables, and dessert, all for about seventy-five cents. [7] In fact, the first known use of the expression “blue plate special,” indicating a bargain-cost, complete, inexpensive meal (served on an actual blue plate), was on an 1892 Harvey House menu. (59)

Today, only a few Harvey Houses remain. Still, whenever a roadside diner advertises a blue plate special—irrespective of the actual color of the plate— its invoking Harvey’s dining philosophy: good food at a reasonable price.